I’ve recently turned vegan. How do I have a great barbecue?
Nia, by email
Happily, most vegetables benefit from a bit of barbecue action, but the key is not to get too carried away, says Genevieve Taylor, author of How to BBQ: “There’s a real leaning for people to overdo barbecues, but you should approach it just as you would any meal, with one central star and a few sides. After all, there’s no other meal where you’d be expected to eat a chop, a sausage, a kebab and a chicken wing.” Not a meal you’d find Nia devouring, sure, but you get the general idea.
Shaun McAnuff, author of Original Flava: Easy Caribbean, would be inclined kick things off with tostones. “They’re a bit like crisps,” he says. “Boil green plantain, which are more dense and not as sweet as yellow ones, then peel and cut into thick circles.” Smash those flat with the bottom of a mug, then barbecue until nice and crisp and serve with guacamole or salsa. Alternatively, grab some aubergines, Taylor says: “They’re such a sponge for smoky flavours.” Slice lengthways, brush with oil, season and grill until soft. “Spread a filling, such as walnut paté with spices, herbs and pomegranate molasses, over the slices and roll up.” Those would be nice at room temperature, which also helps with getting ahead.
For mains, plant-forward chef Bettina Campolucci Bondi has been known to hedgehog aubergines and courgettes and marinate them simply in olive oil, salt, pepper, miso and soy, or jerk seasoning: “Get that into all the nooks and crannies.” Stuffed vegetables are another solid option, Taylor says: “You feel as if you’re getting an actual thing, rather than having to share bits of a meal with others.” Halve courgettes lengthways, criss-cross the cut side, drizzle with olive oil, season and grill until soft. Scoop out the flesh, chop it all up, then mix with cooked puy lentils. Spoon the lot back into the courgette shells, then return briefly to the barbecue: “I’d normally serve those with mint sauce and ricotta, but you could easily use coconut yoghurt or vegan cheese instead.” Peppers are another route to stuffing fulfilment, and Taylor would fill them with chickpeas, harissa and coriander. “Roast just off to the side of the heat until softened and cooked through, then bring over the fire to crisp.” Serve with a dollop of harissa-spiked coconut yoghurt.
You’ll also need a few sides. “I love sweet potato wedges with lemon-tahini dressing and roast chickpeas for crunch,” Taylor says. Otherwise, layer grilled carrots with the likes of pecans, spring onions, herbs and lots of olive oil. It’s worth tossing any spare little gems on the fire, too: “They need just a few seconds on each side with a bit of oil and salt, then drizzle with pesto [leave out the cheese or use a vegan one] and sprinkle over some pine nuts caramelised with sugar and smoked paprika.”
The last blast of barbecue heat can then be used for afters, and griddled pineapple with maple syrup and chilli is a real winner in Campolucci Bondi’s book. “Or cut a slit in ripe unpeeled bananas [not all the way through, mind], stuff with chocolate and peanut butter, and barbecue until everything melts.” Now that’s a top banana.
