On the southern side of the island, in a 17th-century building overlooking the harbor in La Flotte, chef Arthur Da Costa Adao and sommelier Louis Grizeau bring their expertise and twenty-something energy to L’Écailler, crafting tasting menus and beverage pairings that make local products sing—mackerel, meagre, mussels, the famed homard bleu (blue lobster), and more, adorned simply but thoughtfully with seasonal produce. For now, it remains the only Michelin-starred restaurant on Île de Ré.
Another must-visit is La Martinière, an Île de Ré ice cream institution, which pays homage to local harvests with flavors like potato and oysters with seaweed praline (creamy, briny, and strange, but worth a taste), plus crowd pleasers like caramel with fleur de sel (sea salt).
Where to stay in Île de Ré
Attesting to the island’s laid-back spirit, Île de Ré has a long tradition of camping. Sites can be found across the island, from family-friendly favorites such as Huttopia to more design-forward stays. At the glamping end of the spectrum is Le Phare, a boutique retreat in Les Portes-en-Ré, on the island’s wild northern tip. Nestled among dunes and salt marshes, its chic beach houses and cabins feature light-filled interiors, natural materials, and terraces that open onto wild landscapes. With the beach just steps away, heated pools, bike rentals, and nature-led experiences, it’s an ideal base for settling into the island’s relaxed rhythm.
By way of lodging, Hôtel de Toiras occupies prime real estate in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, perched on the small port that’s the heart of the island. While the exterior is simple and white-washed, the interior is like a lavish country estate, owing to the esteemed design eye of Pierre-Yves Rochon. Each room and suite, named after a different historical figure, features unique decor items. Mine, very “Marie Antoinette goes to the beach,” had canary-yellow and royal-blue Toile de Jouy wallpaper, and a crown-canopied bed draped in matching, richly textured fabric. The port views and the claw-foot tub added to the seaside aristocratic feel.
A short stroll away, slightly removed from the commotion of the port, is Villa Clarisse. It’s an intimate nine-room property with a clean and airy Haussmannian feel—white walls and high ceilings; fireplaces topped with Louis XV mirrors. Guests are encouraged to feel at home, with an honor-system apéro set-up for pouring champagne, mixing cocktails with local Citadelle gin, and snacking on sliced saucisson. The lush gardens, manicured but also a touch sauvage, have plenty of recliners, and a crystalline pool just begs for a quick dip. The wellness area has two spaces for signature Olivier Claire body and face treatments, and the studio offers yoga classes on Thursday mornings.
Also in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, Hotel La Baronnie calls itself a “village within a village.” It’s an 18th-century estate with 23 uniquely designed rooms and suites. Amenities include the Bar 1721 and the island’s only Cinq Mondes Spa, featuring a hydrotherapy pool, jacuzzi, sauna, and a curated menu of signature massages and treatments.
For a low-key, B&B-style stay, Le Secret has five bright guest rooms—understated with a mix of vintage decor—overlooking a lush garden with a sleek swimming pool, olive trees, Japanese maples, and figs. The owners are happy to arrange in-room wellness treatments and massages on request, and share their insider knowledge of Île de Ré.
