On warmer days, I want to cook simpler yet bolder food. Meals become fresher, less heavy and more instinctive, using fewer ingredients but stronger flavours. Everything feels relaxed and generous, which is why I’m drawn to chermoula fish and batata harra, full of garlic, herbs, chilli, citrus, cumin and smoke. In other words, food that’s made for outdoors, slow afternoons and warm summer-night gatherings with loved ones.
Chermoula fish with olive salsa
Chermoula is a classic Moroccan marinade that’s traditionally used to flavour white fish. Here, though, I’ve chosen sea trout or salmon, because I love how oily fish balances the bright flavours of the cumin, coriander, garlic and lemon. Served with an olive salsa full of heat and citrus, this dish is inspired by memories of travelling through Morocco and wandering Marrakech’s markets, drinking mint tea on rooftop terraces and eating freshly grilled seafood on the coast in Essaouira.
Prep 20 min
Marinate 30 min
Cook 25 min
Serves 4
800g sustainably-sourced sea trout or salmon fillet, skin on
For the chermoula
7 tbsp olive oil
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped (110g)
20g fresh coriander, finely chopped
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp lemon zest
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp sweet paprika
½ tsp dried chilli flakes, crushed
Salt and black pepper
For the olive salsa
30g black olives, pitted and finely chopped
1 small or ½ large cucumber, deseeded and finely chopped (50g)
4 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
1 tbsp apple cider vinegar
3 tbsp olive oil
1 red chilli, pith and seeds discarded if you prefer less heat, flesh finely chopped (20g net weight)
25g sunflower seeds, toasted
½ tsp sugar
1 tsp orange zest
½ tbsp orange blossom water
Lay the fish fillet skin side down on an oven tray lined with greaseproof paper, pat dry with paper towel and set aside.
Put all the chermoula ingredients in a medium bowl with a quarter-teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper, and mix well. Sprinkle a half-teaspoon of salt over the fish, spoon the chermoula on top and spread it out evenly. Cover and leave in the fridge to marinate for about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, put all the salsa ingredients in another medium bowl, add a half-teaspoon of salt and a grind of black pepper, and mix well.
Bake the fish in an oven heated to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 for 17 minutes (or up to 20, if you prefer it more well cooked), until cooked through and it flakes easily. Carefully transfer the fish to a large platter and serve with the olive salsa on the side, and perhaps with the batata harra below.
Batata harra (spicy potatoes)
This popular Levantine dish is known for its bold heat and fragrant herbs. Crisp fried or roast potatoes are tossed in olive oil, garlic, chilli and fresh coriander to create vibrant, zesty-earthy flavours, and they’re often served as part of a meze or as a side dish. This dish is especially popular across Palestine and neighbouring countries, loved for its simplicity, comforting texture and ability to complement grilled meat, flatbreads and salads.
Prep 10 min
Cook 40 min
Serves 4
1kg baby potatoes, cut in half lengthways
4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
Salt
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2 tsp coriander seeds, slightly crushed
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp aleppo chilli flakes, or regular chilli flakes
½ tbsp tomato paste
2 tsp harissa – I use Lamiri
2 tbsp lemon juice
10g fresh coriander, roughly chopped
Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/475F/gas 9. In a large bowl, mix the potatoes with a tablespoon of olive oil and a teaspoon of salt, then arrange them in a single layer in an oven tray and roast for 30-35 minutes, until cooked through and slightly browned.
Put the remaining three tablespoons of oil, the garlic and spices in a medium saute pan and cook, stirring, on a low heat for three minutes, until fragrant but not browned. Stir in the tomato paste, harissa and a quarter-teaspoon of salt, and cook for three minutes more, until the garlic starts to take on some colour. Add the roast potatoes, the lemon juice and most of the chopped coriander, and toss gently to coat.
Transfer to a large platter, garnish with the remaining coriander and a good drizzle of olive oil, and serve.
